Before I completely forget all about it, please allow me to tell you about a little adventure I had back in September. It was cycling from Camden to Limehouse and the River Thames.
The aim of my cycle ride was to complete a ride I started in September 2023! Back then I had cycled, via the towpath, along the Grand Union canal from Stoke Bruerne in Northamptonshire all the way into London and I had stopped at Camden. At the time I had thought my journey was complete but I had a nagging thought in the back of my mind that I could go a little further.
So a plan was hatched for me to ride, once again on the towpath, from Camden to Limehouse Basin. This is where the canal meets the River Thames. I don’t know the distance but it wasn’t far at all, probably about 3 or 4 miles. Nevertheless it was a significant 3 or 4 miles.
The starting point
I started at Camden, just a short bike ride from St Pancras station. I got onto the towpath at exactly the same place where I finished before. Clearly it was a “regenerated area” with the hallmarks of having gone from a grotty dump into a new smart, shiny and good-looking area, full of fancy flats (sorry, I mean apartments) and interesting sights and sounds.
I was really impressed at the way the old gasometer frames had been preserved and modern flats and gardens built around them. It looked good and from a urban planning point of view the area had much going for it – I do like the contrasts of old and new blending well together while being softened by shrubs and trees.
I did, however, wonder if the residents of those apartments had been caught up in the cladding scandal. Readers in the UK will know what I’m talking about – Grenfell. A few years ago the terrible fire at a London block of flats saw 70+ people die in such a preventable way. A fire had broken out in one flat and had quickly spread to engulf the entire building because of flammable cladding which had been fitted to the outside of the tower block. Since then other blocks of flats have become virtually worthless while architects, builders, freeholders, leaseholders, banks the Government and undoubtedly many others all squabble over liability.
Beautiful people along the way
As I pedalled along, I decided to greet everyone I encountered with a friendly “morning” or “hiya” and just about everyone responded in a positive way. And why wouldn’t you? It was a perfect late summer day. We had a new government and, for just a brief time, life seemed absolutely perfect.
Everyone was beautiful in one way or another. Young, old, men, women, kids all looked well and happy. Friends were meeting up for lunch, young families out for some fun, plenty of young slim people jogging, lovers walking arm in arm. I listened to the voices, so many languages! It was a microcosm of humanity, all there on the canal towpath, all getting along well with each other. It was glorious.
My only detour was around the Islington tunnel (I think that’s what it’s called). It was maybe half a mile or so through the streets, with the route mostly signed but the general direction was easy to follow. The was a lovely family from the Netherlands heading the same way and we chatted to each other while we pedalled the streets. It was a little tricky as they were used to being on the right side of the road and instinctively kept veering off towards on-coming cars!
Gradually the city scape changed from the smart urban areas to light industries and some parks. There were groups of kids in hi-viz jackets picking up littler, others learning how to kayak and even a yoga group along the way. I was seeing life, almost at its finest; people getting on with each other and enjoying life. You can’t help but wonder why people can’t do this everywhere. Why do we have so many conflicts, wars and so on?
Reaching Limehouse Basin
I was almost disappointed that I reached Limehouse Basin so soon. It is where the Regent’s Canal eventually reaches the final lock and joins onto the River Thames. While there are many modern buildings with their attractive architecture, it was pleasing to see the past has not been completely swept aside.
Once I had reached the River Thames (top photo) I enjoyed replaying the memories of the ride in my mind. This included the cycle ride from Northamptonshire, all the way through Milton Keynes, through Bedfordshire, Buckingham, skirting around west London to Uxbridge and into central London before this final leg to the River Thames. I remembered the lovely sights along the way, the interesting and colourfully and eccentric folk along the way. Even the puncture I had was all part of the amazing journey (though annoying at the time!).
Home via….
Seeing as how I was having such a nice time, I decided to cycled from Limehouse into central London and then head back to St Pancras. There were all kinds of shortcuts that I could have taken but I was enjoying myself too much!
I remembered our Ukrainian guests describing London as being “beautiful, expensive and a little bit crazy”. I think they were exactly right! It is all of those things but you do need money to make the most of it.
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Adventure on the Grand Union Canal
Nice to see you mention Stoke Bruerne, my mother in law lives close by and we often go there for a bacon buttie and a bit of gongoozling.
Very interesting little museum giving the history of the canals, the engineers and navigators who built them and the people who used them.
So nice to see them enjoying a second lease of life for leisure pursuits as well as a bit of trade transport. Long may they continue to hold water.